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Fashion Tech 2026

Inhibiscus

Flower math

Red Inhibiscus Hawaii shirt, blue dress — © Jasmijn vd Hurk, Rens Kwakkenbosch,Josje vd Lubben

After exhibiting "Math Art meets Sustainable Material" in 2025, I became obsessed with why flowers form spirals. Beyond Fibonacci numbers and the Golden Angle, how does it actually work? What hidden force drives plants to choose these numbers?

Inhibition theory of Flower Growth

The inhibiscus is a new type of abstract flower. Its name combines two words: hibiscus and inhibition. An inhibiscus is a very beautiful flower, often used as a motif for Hawaii shirts. Inhibition is a biological mechanism which regulates the levels of growth hormones in plants and therefore also phyllotaxis, that is, how plants produce spirals and spiral arms, often Fibonacci-numbered. In my quest to understand phyllotaxis I found that one can turn the mathematical models of Marzec and the simulation models of Douady inside out because the inverse of a golden spiral is a golden spiral again. The inhibiscus is made of polar plots of inhibition levels of individual primordia and a contour representing the sum of the latter. The valleys in the contour predict the next primordium to be born. The biological mechanism at work in a plant's meristem, for the first time, appears as another flower. The main mathematical tool is circle inversion. The inhibiscus is a new intuition for the phenomenon that a golden flower continues its growth while re-using the same golden divergence angle.

About Loe Feijs

LAURENTIUS LAB. is the label of professor emeritus Loe Feijs, who works at Fashion tech Farm, at TU/e, and in his studio in Sittard.
I explore math art, coupled to innovation in fashion and materials.
I want math to be used for beauty.

Golden versus non-golden flower — © Loe Feijs

Inhibiscuses at different flower growth parameters — © Loe Feijs

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